Fermentation
First, the pods, containing cacao beans, are
harvested. The beans, together with their surrounding
pulp, are removed from the pod and left in piles or bins
to ferment for three to seven days. The beans must then
be quickly dried to prevent mould growth; weather
permitting, this is done by spreading the beans out in
the sun.
Roasting
The cocoa beans are then roasted, developing the
flavours and aromas and enriching the colour. The beans
are then roasted, graded and ground. Cocoa butter is
removed from the either by being pressed or by the Broma
process. The residue is what is known as cocoa powder.
Winnowing
The beans pass through a machine, which cracks them
open and separates the husks from the ‘nibs’ (the centre
of the bean).
Grinding & Mixing
The winnowed beans are ground, which refines the cocoa
particles, releasing the cocoa butter and the cocoa mass
resulting chocolate liquor. Both these, plus other basic
ingredients such as sugar and milk powder, are mixed and
kneaded. Further grinding between steel rollers reduces
the particle size even more.
Conching
A conche is a container filled with metal beads, which
act as grinders. This refining process removes
‘volatile’ components (unwanted flavours and
aromas). The liquid chocolate is constantly agitated and
heat-treated, and flavours are added. By the end of this
process the chocolate has
developed it’s full flavour and characteristic velvety
smoothness. The more expensive chocolates tend to be
processed longer and thus have a smoother texture and
“feel” on the tongue, regardless of whether emulsifying
agents are added
Tempering
Liquid chocolate is cooled from 45*C to approximately
28*C, then heated again to 30*C. This is a critical
stage which, when done correctly, delivers the perfect
structure of cocoa butter crystals, resulting in
chocolate having a high gloss finish and a sharp ‘snap’
when broken.
Blended Chocolate
Chocolate made with cocoa mass taken from a blend of
different types of beans, ensuring consistency of
flavour. The majority of chocolate is made in this way.
Chocolate manufacturers’ blends are valuable, closely
guarded secrets.
Dark chocolate (also called plain chocolate)
A blend of cocoa butter, sugar, cocoa powder and
sometimes vanilla. The percentage of cocoa solids used
in good quality dark chocolate can range from 60% to 75%
but should be a minimum of 70%. U.S. chocolates have a
lower percentage requirement of cocoa liquor for dark
chocolate, so some dark chocolate has sugar as the top
ingredient.
Ganache
A
chocolate centre made from blending chocolate and cream,
often with added alcohol, nuts, vanilla and other
distinctive flavours.
Gianduja
A chocolate centre made by blending roasted nuts, sugar
and chocolate.
Milk Chocolate
A blend of cocoa powder, cocoa butter, sugar,
vanilla flavouring and milk or milk powder. The Cocoa
content should be a minimum of 50%
Origin Chocolate
Chocolate made with cocoa mass taken from cocoa beans of
one region or plantation, rather than a blend of beans
from more than one source. The time of harvest, the type
of soil and the regional and climactic conditions all
contribute to each type of cocoa bean’s unique character
and flavour.
Praline
A chocolate centre recipe refining roasted nuts and
sugar to a smooth paste, often with added chopped nuts,
chocolate or cocoa powder
Truffle
A chocolate centre recipe blending ganache with added
butter, fondant and sometimes fruit pieces
White chocolate
A blend of cocoa powder (33% or less), milk, sugar and
vanilla flavouring. White chocolate does not contain any
cocoa solids.
Cocoa Powder
There are two types of unsweetened baking cocoa
available: natural cocoa (like the sort produced by
Hershey’s and Nestlé) and Dutch-process cocoa (such as
the Hershey’s European Style Cocoa and the Droste
brand). Both are made by pulverising partially defatted
chocolate liquor and removing nearly all the cocoa
butter. Natural cocoa is light in colour and somewhat
acidic with a strong chocolate flavour. Natural cocoa is
commonly used in recipes which call for baking soda.
Because baking soda is an alkali, combining it with
natural cocoa creates a leavening action that allows the
batter to rise during baking. Dutch-process cocoa is
processed with alkali to neutralise its natural acidity.
Dutch cocoa is slightly milder in taste, with a deeper
and warmer colour than natural cocoa. Dutch-process
cocoa is frequently used for chocolate drinks such as
hot chocolate due to its ease in blending with liquids.
Unfortunately, Dutch processing destroys most of the
flavonols present in cocoa.
Compound chocolate
This is the technical term for a confection combining
cocoa with vegetable fat, usually tropical fats and/or
hydrogenated fats, as a replacement for cocoa butter. It
is primarily used for candy bar coatings, but because it
does not contain cocoa butter, in the US it is not
allowed to be called “chocolate.” Popular in Britain,
the European Union for a time required that it be called
“vegelate”, but it can now be called “family chocolate”.
Unfortunately in America, to the untrained observer the
adjective used for this substance appears to merely be
the adjectival form of chocolate: “chocolatey”. The
candy bars sold in America often no longer have true
chocolate as a major component. This is especially true
for much candy passed as “white chocolate”, which need
not contain anything from the cacao bush at all. This
can translate to poor taste, texture and possibly health
concerns, particularly when partially hydrogenated oils
are used to replace cacao butter. Flavours such as mint,
orange, or strawberry are sometimes added to chocolate.
Chocolate bars frequently contain added ingredients such
as peanuts, nuts, fruit, caramel, or even crisped rice.
Couverture
This is a term used for chocolates rich in cocoa butter.
Popular brands of couverture used by professional pastry
chefs and often sold in gourmet and specialty food
stores include: Valrhona, Felchlin, Lindt & Sprüngli,
Scharffen Berger, Barry Callebaut, and Guittard.
These chocolates contain a high percentage of cocoa
(sometimes 70% or more) and have a total fat content of
30-40%.
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